Anti-aging cosmetics: cell protection for the skin

As the origin of all body cells, they have exceptional abilities: Unlike their colleagues, stem cells can develop into very different tissues and divide almost infinitely and replace damaged or old cells. Both are skills that make them interesting for research, for example, to cure diseases and the beauty industry to stop skin aging. Or at least slow it down.

Push stem cells so that they stay fit for as long as possible.

How should this work? One of the most common approaches has been to increase the number of stem cells in the complexion, for example, through injections. In practices specializing in aesthetics, these are first taken from the patient’s blood vessels in the body’s fat tissue (e.g., on the abdomen) because they are particularly common there. They are then injected into areas of the face that have become tired. There they are supposed to boost collagen production and thus provide more strength. Less invasive: creams or serums that contain plant stem cells, for example, from “Uttwiler Spätlauber,” an exceptionally long-lived apple variety.

In the meantime, however, there is another approach in cosmetics: not to multiply the stem cells, but to use the best possible one, Push around so that they stay fit for as long as possible. Using this approach, the stem cell physician Professor Augustinus Bader developed a care series with amino acids, vitamins, and skin-identical molecules that stimulate the stem cells and smooth wrinkles, and reduce age spots.

Dior, or the luxury company behind it, LVMH, has now carried out basic research and let the results flow into the new “Capture Totale Cell Energy” line. LVMH’s research department has been dealing with stem cells for years and has teamed up with experts from the “Center for iPS Cell Research and Application” (CiRA) at Kyoto University for their new project. The director is the Nobel Prize winner Shin’ya Yamanaka. The scientists compared stem cells from 20-year-old donors to 40-year-olds. “In the past, we looked at the cells’ surroundings, such as how they react to aggressive influences such as UV radiation,” explains Bruno Bavouzet, head of the research department at LVMH. “Now we could look deeper into the cell and find out that aging does not reduce the number of stem cells as was previously assumed, but their energy potential, by up to 50 percent.” The consequence of the loss: The skin loses its radiance, its elasticity – in short, it ages.

Effect on proteins

How can this be influenced? According to the Dior researchers, with an active ingredient complex consisting of four flower extracts, the in-house ethnobotanists have identified 1667 floral ingredients: longoza, peony, jasmine, and white lily. “We don’t act directly on the stem cells, but on the proteins, which in turn influence the activity of the cells,” says Bavouzet.

A fermented lipopeptide was integrated to reach stem cells in the deeper layers of the skin. It connects to the skin and is said to increase the care’s absorption capacity by up to 30 percent – like a personal trainer who ensures that the fitness program is done correctly.

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